Monday, December 14, 2009

a few more snapshots

The Christmas decorations have come out in full force, especially for the Virgin de Guadalupe Day feast which took place on December 12th... there were a lot of firecrackers going off and public gatherings in plazas, and pinatas!
I love all the lights everywhere. I've had it pretty easy here actually, in terms of winter darkness: it was 26 degrees C today but it's going to be 8 degrees C tomorrow.... Aaaaaaahhh!!
I had the best street food that I've had during my time here at this cart... omg. I don't remember what it was called, where it was or how I'll be able to find it again. But if you happen to be in the neighborhood near the Parque Viveros (this huge park where families like to hang out and have BBQs), ask somewhere where the taco cart is, across the street from the Pemex gas station and OXXO convenience store, that serves the amazing sopes with carne asada and cheese... you won't regret it, I promise.
Ghetto cooking in Nuevo Laredo. Yes, that is a floor tile... (I clean it!!)
BURRO! I love burros. The man who was driving the truck shouted out "Se vende!" (For sale!) as the loan officer and I pulled away.
Driving with the loan officers is always a mildly terrifying experience, especially when the cars are lacking sidemirrors.
An example of a house in Nuevo Laredo, permanently under construction.

Nine days left...

Friday, December 4, 2009

A Visit in Nuevo Laredo

Corey is now gone but the signs of his stay are still all over my apartment: the black peppercorns spilled all over the floor (he was smashing them with a floor tile to put into my pepper shaker), the two magnets of Mt. Hood on the fridge that he brought me to give as gifts to people, the box of leftover shrimp rice in the fridge (I should probably throw that away). All in all it was a wonderful visit. Even though we didn't go anywhere (neither of us felt like dealing with long bus rides), it felt like a real vacation. On Thursday and Friday we had to go to the office because I had work to do but we left after 3pm on Friday. We did all the Nuevo Laredo things I wanted us to do. On Friday night we went to the karaoke bar and met up with my friends. On Saturday morning that we took the bus to the Wal-Mart mall, bought a ticket to 2012, watching 3/4ths of it and then sneaked into Inglorious Bastards (what a pointless, boring movie). We tried to stick it out but left shortly after Brad Pitt dug his fingers into the German actresses' bullet wound. We ate a LOT. Corey ate so many meat tacos, I was actually a little shocked. We also went to some nice seafood restaurants. On Sunday afternoon we went to the market; in the afternoon we walked over the border together (the first time I've been in Laredo, surprisingly enough!), said goodbye and I sent him in a taxi. It was a wonderful visit and best of all I'll be back in Portland for Christmas in only three weeks. And then I guess we need to start planning our trip back to Ecuador... eek!

Here are some more photos:
Driving across the border with my amazingly kind and nice co-worker who took the time to do so. There were so many cars, it took well over an hour to drive across the bridge over the Rio Bravo (when I walked across it, it took about two minutes).
Too bad I got the time of Corey's arrival wrong; we ended up waiting in the Laredo airport for 2 1/2 hours. Whoops!
Corey arrives! We are happy to see each other, obviously. I think this is a pretty cute picture, even with the blurriness and my Skeletor hand.
Daaw.

And that's it. I took NO pictures during his visit because I am made of FAIL. Honestly, I think taking pictures is kind of annoying, which once again makes me wonder about the purpose of this blog... it has such a weird, ambiguous, almost pointless identity for me. I guess it's sort of a vague travel blog? Hmm. Maybe when we go back to Ecuador things will become clearer...

Anyway, here's some photos of my apartment when I first moved in. Check out the nasty fridge (that was no fun to clean, I tell ya) and the random bucket crusted over with dry flakes of cement.

Saturday, November 21, 2009

In Nuevo Laredo

I miss writing here. I've been writing for the Kiva Fellows blog while I complete the Kiva Fellows internship in Nuevo Laredo, Mexico, with Fundación para la Vivienda Progresiva (FVP). I recently learned that for my next placement I might be placed with a partner microfinance institution in Quito, Ecuador. I really hope this ends up happening because it would be really great if Corey and I could return to Ecuador again. How funny if we were to have the chance to return to that strange little equatorial country.

Anyway, so even though I now officially have less than a month (!!) here in Mexico, I'm going to try to update here during the little time that remains. So to start with, here are some pictures of my time so far in Nuevo Laredo.

This is the view from the office window of the two competing taco carts across the street, Tacos Tony and Tacos El Guero. Apparently the the GM merger, many office staff wondered if a merger of the two carts would result in Tacos Tony El Guero or Tacos El Guero Tony. Thankfully, said merger never took place.


FVP's mission statement: "to generate positive, enduring change..."


Ensalada de nopales in the local vegetarian restaurant, El Nuevo Sol.


A lady stops by the office once a week to sell tamales, including 10-peso chicken tamales with salsa verde. I'm always so excited when she comes, because they're soooo good.


One of the loan officers cuts her birthday cake. Office birthday parties are definitely a cause for excitement, especially the mango cakes. Too bad there's no more birthdays left for the year.


Just hanging out, eating and cracking jokes, business as usual at FVP.


Local neighborhood Jesus wall. Landmarks such as these are important for locating clients on confusing streets.


A quesadilla de carne asada prepared by a Kiva/FVP client. So much for vegetarianism, eh? You gotta accept the gifts you're given, though!


A lot of FVP clients run little albarrotes, or grocery stores. You walk past these all the time, but you never really think of the story behind the person who runs it, you know?


The intern prepares for the client interview.


Nelly the loan officer manhandles a giant calculator (she left her own calculator at home and had to use the one the client had for sale in the store) in an effort to calculate whether or not the client's business is resulting in a profit or a loss. Stressful!


Just a regular Nuevo Laredo street.


Going door-to-door visiting clients' houses (this one already had several loans to FVP for housing improvement. Looks pretty nice, doesn't it?).


A menu that fills my heart with joy.


A huarache, which also means leather sandal. God, this was so good.


Quesadilla de huitlacoche, a type of corn fungus. O, as Corey so lovingly put it, rotting corn. Wikipedia is a little less harsh with the term corn smut. These are really, really delicious, very salty and shroomy-tasting.


Local gardening in the form of papaya trees. People also tend to grow chili peppers.


A client I visited who made gorgeous art work. She ended up giving me a pillow with the Virgin of Guadalupe on it, complete with sequins and glitter. I keep it on the armchair in my apartment. Now whenever I sit on this armchair I always inevitably end up with red and blue glitter on my clothes.


My workstation, filled with the most common accessories. Note the screen recovering the crashed Open Office documents, the Styrofoam cup of banana batido (I've stopped buying these since), the mess of papers and the cluttered nightmare desktop with Excel documents.


A michelada, or beer with lime, salt and chili smeared around the rim. Quite tasty.


Eating a cheese quesadilla after consuming a big bowl of menudo, or tripe soup. It was actually quite tasy, perfect stuff for a rainy, gray day.


I swear to God we walked 5km, looking at stall after stall of clothes bought from Ross and the Goodwill bins from the U.S., TVs, computer parts, washing machines, refrigerators, mattresses, pirated DVDs and CDs, children's toys, cellphones... basically anything and everything you would ever need, you could find here.


At las pulgas with co-workers and their kids. Las pulgas means the fleas, which I assume is short for flea-market.


Estacion Palabra is like the local reading/cultural center, built with money from none other than Colombian author Gabriel Garcia Marquez, who apparently traveled through Nuevo Laredo while embarking on his road trip through the U.S. south (which he writes about in "Vivir para contarla"). I told you the world was small!


LOOK AT HOW BIG THAT HAMBURGER IS. It was the size of my head!! But it was sooo good. Man, I want one now. Mexico, you have turned me into a vicious carnivore, much to my chagrin.


Competition for FVP? (It's a pretty sketchy flier advertising easily available loans, no questions asked... interesting that the interest rates are not posted...)


Laredo's version of the border wall. Pretty different from the five fences in the Tijuana-San Diego region, complete with helicopters, Batman-like lights at night in the sky and helicopters chopping away overhead.


My puny view of America, on the other side of the fence. I haven't walked across the border since I got here, but I will tonight when I go to pick up Corey at the airport... :)


Huge Mexican flag right by border wall. I wonder if the American one is this big up close.


On Guerrero, the main street in Nuevo Laredo.


Mural in a square. I thought it was interesting the text was in English. Nuevo Laredo and Laredo are often referred to as "los dos Laredos" in the media. There's plenty of newspapers that cover news for both cities, and also in dialogue many people simply refer to "Laredo" when speaking of Nuevo Laredo, as though the two terms were interchangeable. It's definitely the healthiest, friendliest relationship between two U.S.-Mexican border cities I've ever seen (compared to Juarez-El Paso and Tijuana-San Diego).


This was line to see "2012" at the Wal-Mart mall. It was so long!! My friend was REALLY happy to see this many people, because he said it was good for Mexico's economy.


Miau sardines ("miau" is the sound a cat makes).


These birds always make so much noise in the evening! They're crazy, always cawing and calling away.


My street.

Sunday, September 6, 2009

life, London, this moment in June

Wow, this blog really died in 2009. I guess we weren't traveling so there wasn't really any point in updating it. We just got back from a two week trip to England and Paris, so for what it's worth here are some photos:

We fought through jetlag and went to the Natural History museum.

The dodos were fake, unfortunately.

Cthulu is everywhere.

Waiting for our train at the Eurostar station.

Notre Dame statues look quizically at the dude holding his own head in his hand.

Amour en Paris.

Free bikes! Too bad the machine woulnd't accept our debit cards (for liability reasons) so that we never got to ride them :( ... why doesn't Portland have a system like this?

Watching street performers. The guy in the orange shirt wasn't part of the troupe, but insisted on participating anyway. I think he entertained the crowd more than the actual dancers.

Poker is popular in France, apparently. Or maybe it's just Tom Dunn.

We went to a bar in the Latin Quarter with crazy red lighting.

The anarchist angel.

Relaxing in the Tuileries gardens, feeling like a character in a Henry James novel. From the Oxford World Classics Introduction to Henry James' The Portrait of a Lady: "In 1869, [James] took his first journey to Europe alone and sent back ecstatic letters about his adoration of the ancient cultures of France and Italy, places that seemed steeped in rich history against the thin soil that barely supported American letters... One of James' abiding themes was the encounter of the Old and New World, in an era when political and economic power was inexorably shifting toward America yet Europe retained much of its cultural authority." (pgs. vii-ix)

It's always one shoe that's randomly lost in the metro or the street, never both. Someone should discuss the mathematical law explaining this. I guess the shoe isn't really "lost" if its mate is present.

We ate crepes in a classically cramped Versaille apartment with our friends.

We visited the founding place of Truth, Beauty and Love...

.. but mostly found sexy toy shops instead. (See England? Paris doesn't hide its sexytoys!)

Amusing poster inside the bathroom of a cafe--just in case you were confused as to whether or not you were in the right one, I guess.

Obviously the French hippie house in Montmarte, the Amelie neighborhood.

By the Bastille.

Walking around the Pompidou (modern art museum).

Amusing street performer.

At first I thought this sign was saying that you weren't allowed to do sit-ups, but I guess all it meant was no lying on the grass.

We ate escargot and rabbit at this really great resteraunt called Chez Paul that Emily took me to the first time I visited Paris. It was good.

Then we drank beer and Pisco, which was wretched and made me ill.

I liked documenting the random graffiti.

I liked the classic cobblestoned Parisian streets too.

The night we went out with our gracious Parisian hosts, Corey confronted a seafood feast of the most epic quality.

All that the sea promises and more.

Our very gracious hosts... <3 without their hospitality, there's no way we could have afforded this trip.

Peace monument near the Eiffel Tower.

We visited one of those giant glass malls that Zola wrote about, where Corey looked at cacti.

Best falafel ever. Ooooomygod. I could easily eat this a thousand times over.

I like the centerpieces in the storefronts of the Marais neighborhood.

Parisians encourage young children to smoke, apparently.

Corey's riding the Eurostar face.

Back in London, at the British Museum, we came to the following conclusion: ancient civilizations were visited by aliens. I mean, c'mon... men with wings? Really?

Dude... the Egyptians were aliens. I mean just look at them.

Who's the paragon of the decline and fall of civilization now, huh? Huh?!

Little kids laughing at the statue's weenie. Very mature.

Dude... total Illuminati.

The infamous Elgin marbles. I wish I could remember what I learned in my freshman year Humanities 110 class about them. I liked the pamphlet the British Museum had set up in front of the exhibit that basically said "fuck you Greece, we're keeping 'em." Har har har dee har har. Good thing the museum is free--doesn't make much sense to charge for shit you stole, you know?

You gotta take pride in the $5 pint.

From the essay called 'The American Heroine,' published in 1875, by Agnes Macdonnell: "[The American Girl] is not bone of our bone; she has passed from among us; she has emigrated to new spheres; and we examine her with wonder and admiration mixed with some little amusement. She is possibly representative of a future era in fiction, and perhaps we are destined to see the day when we shall meet her in the pages of English novels."

All the phone booths in my cousin's neighborhood were plastered with these sexy calling cards at night. Confusingly enough, they were always removed during the day, leaving nothing but stray lumps of glue on the wall. Imagine having that job, darting from phone booth to phone booth, either taping up the sexy cards or tearing them down.

Check out this crazy spaceship-like building; it made me think of "Men in Black" and wonder if it was built for future intergalactic exploration.

I dragged Corey to the Tate Modern, where there was some interesting mushroom art that we both enjoyed.

This was the last photo I took before the security guard scolded me; this piece is supposed to represent a lightning bolt, a goat and a sheep (decide for yourself which object is which)

A cool poster at King's Cross station.

Admiring the punts on the Cam.

I make it a personal goal to sample as many papitas as possible on my journeys. Thomas is an eager participant, in this random pub by the river that had all these posters of Pink Floyd on the wall (I think the singer used to go there--the pub owners were obviously very excited about it).

We visited this random natural history museum in Cambridge and looked at a whole bunch of really cool and really old fossils that inspired a lot of contemplative meditation, such as "God, imagine seeing that guy in the water coming after you."

Charles Darwin's fossil collection added to the celebrity "wow" factor.

Some kind of round church that had something to do with the Knights Templar (according to my dad). I think it maybe had something to do with the DaVinci Code too. Or maybe it just seems like the kind of thing the DaVinci Code World would dig.

Busker in Cambridge playing inside a garbage bin. I can easily say that I've never seen *that* before.

The absolutely terrifying "time-eater" clock in downtown Cambridge. I can easily say that I've never seen anything like that before, either. Apparently it's supposed to represent how your life gets eaten up by the passage of time by a terrifying black bug reminiscent of the Alien films.

Note to self: a pitcher in England is more than what you expect.

My dad took us to this creepy dark pub in Harston (the Cambridge suburb where my grandma lives). It was filled with creepy stuffed dead animals, including this river otter.

It was called the Queen's Head, as I recall.

Double rainbow at Harston.

Punting down the Cam does not necesarrily mean fearing for your life with a look of horror.

At ease for a picnic lunch.

Photographic evidence that the Cajuns punt with the best of them.

Bowling at the random AdventureFun ArcadeLand we stumbled into in London.

Corey fights the Battle of Britain and saves the Houses of Parliament.

Promoting American tourism, Pennsylvania style.

We went back to London to go to the Notting Hill Street Carnival, a very interesting, New Orleans-esque affair. There was something like 500,000 people the day we were there. Best of all were the food stalls with amazingly good Caribbean food everywhere. People were serving meals straight out of their houses, like the Ghana lady at the beauty salon who let us use her bathroom in exchange for us eating her saffron rice and chicken.

One of the sillier English pub names that we saw.

I dunno what was up with the paper mache Popeye and Olive.

Chicken was definitely the theme of the day. There was a lot of jerked chicken (this particular chicken was the best that I've ever eaten in my life!)...

... and crazy parades.

And, of course, before we left, exemplifying the best of England, there was fish and chips, mushy peas and arcade games that were impossible to beat.

And that is our classicaly bourgeoise trip to Europe.

A whole, exactly, tragedy unfolds before our eyes in Paris, Prague, Venice or Berlin to name but four, as the moon, vast and orange, rises over the renaissance domes, baroque palaces, nineteenth-century zoos and railway stations, and the modernist slabs of social housing exemplifying the dictum form follows function... the rise in speculative building coincided with the aspirations of the liberal bourgeoisie to create monumental architectural schemes such as I'm thinking particularly now of the Vienesse Ringstrasse which made such an impression on the young Adolf Hitler as he stood one morning before the Opera.
--Or one of the great Parisian boulevards.
--Or one of the great, exactly, Parisian boulevards.

--from Martin Crimp's play Attempts on her Life.