Saturday, November 21, 2009

In Nuevo Laredo

I miss writing here. I've been writing for the Kiva Fellows blog while I complete the Kiva Fellows internship in Nuevo Laredo, Mexico, with Fundación para la Vivienda Progresiva (FVP). I recently learned that for my next placement I might be placed with a partner microfinance institution in Quito, Ecuador. I really hope this ends up happening because it would be really great if Corey and I could return to Ecuador again. How funny if we were to have the chance to return to that strange little equatorial country.

Anyway, so even though I now officially have less than a month (!!) here in Mexico, I'm going to try to update here during the little time that remains. So to start with, here are some pictures of my time so far in Nuevo Laredo.

This is the view from the office window of the two competing taco carts across the street, Tacos Tony and Tacos El Guero. Apparently the the GM merger, many office staff wondered if a merger of the two carts would result in Tacos Tony El Guero or Tacos El Guero Tony. Thankfully, said merger never took place.


FVP's mission statement: "to generate positive, enduring change..."


Ensalada de nopales in the local vegetarian restaurant, El Nuevo Sol.


A lady stops by the office once a week to sell tamales, including 10-peso chicken tamales with salsa verde. I'm always so excited when she comes, because they're soooo good.


One of the loan officers cuts her birthday cake. Office birthday parties are definitely a cause for excitement, especially the mango cakes. Too bad there's no more birthdays left for the year.


Just hanging out, eating and cracking jokes, business as usual at FVP.


Local neighborhood Jesus wall. Landmarks such as these are important for locating clients on confusing streets.


A quesadilla de carne asada prepared by a Kiva/FVP client. So much for vegetarianism, eh? You gotta accept the gifts you're given, though!


A lot of FVP clients run little albarrotes, or grocery stores. You walk past these all the time, but you never really think of the story behind the person who runs it, you know?


The intern prepares for the client interview.


Nelly the loan officer manhandles a giant calculator (she left her own calculator at home and had to use the one the client had for sale in the store) in an effort to calculate whether or not the client's business is resulting in a profit or a loss. Stressful!


Just a regular Nuevo Laredo street.


Going door-to-door visiting clients' houses (this one already had several loans to FVP for housing improvement. Looks pretty nice, doesn't it?).


A menu that fills my heart with joy.


A huarache, which also means leather sandal. God, this was so good.


Quesadilla de huitlacoche, a type of corn fungus. O, as Corey so lovingly put it, rotting corn. Wikipedia is a little less harsh with the term corn smut. These are really, really delicious, very salty and shroomy-tasting.


Local gardening in the form of papaya trees. People also tend to grow chili peppers.


A client I visited who made gorgeous art work. She ended up giving me a pillow with the Virgin of Guadalupe on it, complete with sequins and glitter. I keep it on the armchair in my apartment. Now whenever I sit on this armchair I always inevitably end up with red and blue glitter on my clothes.


My workstation, filled with the most common accessories. Note the screen recovering the crashed Open Office documents, the Styrofoam cup of banana batido (I've stopped buying these since), the mess of papers and the cluttered nightmare desktop with Excel documents.


A michelada, or beer with lime, salt and chili smeared around the rim. Quite tasty.


Eating a cheese quesadilla after consuming a big bowl of menudo, or tripe soup. It was actually quite tasy, perfect stuff for a rainy, gray day.


I swear to God we walked 5km, looking at stall after stall of clothes bought from Ross and the Goodwill bins from the U.S., TVs, computer parts, washing machines, refrigerators, mattresses, pirated DVDs and CDs, children's toys, cellphones... basically anything and everything you would ever need, you could find here.


At las pulgas with co-workers and their kids. Las pulgas means the fleas, which I assume is short for flea-market.


Estacion Palabra is like the local reading/cultural center, built with money from none other than Colombian author Gabriel Garcia Marquez, who apparently traveled through Nuevo Laredo while embarking on his road trip through the U.S. south (which he writes about in "Vivir para contarla"). I told you the world was small!


LOOK AT HOW BIG THAT HAMBURGER IS. It was the size of my head!! But it was sooo good. Man, I want one now. Mexico, you have turned me into a vicious carnivore, much to my chagrin.


Competition for FVP? (It's a pretty sketchy flier advertising easily available loans, no questions asked... interesting that the interest rates are not posted...)


Laredo's version of the border wall. Pretty different from the five fences in the Tijuana-San Diego region, complete with helicopters, Batman-like lights at night in the sky and helicopters chopping away overhead.


My puny view of America, on the other side of the fence. I haven't walked across the border since I got here, but I will tonight when I go to pick up Corey at the airport... :)


Huge Mexican flag right by border wall. I wonder if the American one is this big up close.


On Guerrero, the main street in Nuevo Laredo.


Mural in a square. I thought it was interesting the text was in English. Nuevo Laredo and Laredo are often referred to as "los dos Laredos" in the media. There's plenty of newspapers that cover news for both cities, and also in dialogue many people simply refer to "Laredo" when speaking of Nuevo Laredo, as though the two terms were interchangeable. It's definitely the healthiest, friendliest relationship between two U.S.-Mexican border cities I've ever seen (compared to Juarez-El Paso and Tijuana-San Diego).


This was line to see "2012" at the Wal-Mart mall. It was so long!! My friend was REALLY happy to see this many people, because he said it was good for Mexico's economy.


Miau sardines ("miau" is the sound a cat makes).


These birds always make so much noise in the evening! They're crazy, always cawing and calling away.


My street.